Jewelry



(No Model.)

B. SGHILL.

JEWELRY.

No. 532,587. Patented Jan. 15, 1895.

WITNESSES: mvEmon:

v EMIL SCHILL.

BY ATTY.

m: "cams PETERS co. PHOTO-LUNG. wnsnmm'om o. c.

UNITE STATES PATENT OFFICE.

EMIL SGHILL, OF NEWARK, NEW JERSEY.

JEWELRY.

SEECIFIGATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 532,587, dated January15, 1895.

Application filed July 25, 1894. Serial No. 518,519. (No model.)

To alZ'whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, EMIL SOHILL, a citizen of the United States,residing at Newark, in

the county of Essex and State of New Jersey,

form a part of this specification.

My invention relates to a new method of securing together the severalparts of the set-" tings for clusters, used in rings, especially such asare known as the marquise ring, and other. jewelry in general, as stickor scarf pins, and'the invention consists substantially, in firstpartially producing or partially striking up the design in the separateparts to be made in a piece of jewelry; secondly, in soldering orotherwise securing these parts together, in the manner to be hereinafterfully described; and, finally, finishing the design by engraving orotherwise.

As will be hereinafter understood, my new method of securing the partscomprising the piece of jewelry is applicable to all classesof clusterornamentation or settings for precious stones; is furthermore applicableto all kinds of metals and is not limited to any particular design ordesigns, nor to any particular shape or outline.

The invention is illustrated in the accom-v panying sheet of drawings,in which- Figure 1 is a side view and Fig. 2 is a top view of a ringmade in conformity with the principles of my invention, said ring beingof the class known as the marquise ring. Figs.

1 details of construction thereof, illustrating the adaptability of thepresent invention to other forms of jewelry.

I will first describe my invention in conn ecdent.

tion with the manufacture of cluster rings, as illustrated in Figs. 1 to7 inclusive.

In carrying out my method, two metal blanks a, substantially of theshape and form illustrated in Figs.3 and 4, and which may be made of anysuitable metal, are first subjected to the action of a die, the purposeof which is to partially form thereon the design intended to be impartedto the supporting frame of the ring, and by means of the die the blanksare formed or bent, in the case of a marquise ring, crescent-shaped asillustrated in said Fig. 4. Two of these blanks are then placedtogether, as indicated in Fig. 5, their ends a and a being securedtogether by solder. I next take a blank I) and strike it up in the formillustrated in Fig. 6, said blank being provided with the settings forthe stones, forming a center piece, as will be evi- This center-piecebis then placed be tween the two side pieces a, in such a manner thatthe surrounding edge I) of the center-piece b, will come flush with theupper edges a of the two side-pieces a, said parts being solderedtogether at their abutting edges, as will be understood from an inspection of Fig. '7. The edges of both said side pieces a and thecenter-piece b, soldered together, as stated, are now out or filed awayto form the cramps at on the side-pieces a and cramps b on the centerpiece b, in a desirable ornamentation and for the purpose of holding theprecious stones in the surrounding cluster.

The center-piece b is preferably provided near its marginal rim with arow of holes or perforations 6 into which the workman can cut or file,to remove part of the surrounding surface of the center-piece, and thisenables him to form the cramps b in a very rapid manner.

The band or ring portion a is firmly secured to the sides of the piecesa in the usual man- I oo in precisely the same manner as illustrated inconnection with the ring shown in said Figs.

1 and 2.

The edges b, of the center piece I), see Figs.

5 and 13, are placed flush with the edges a of the correspondinglyshaped side-pieces I), see Figs. 9 and 12, and the parts solderedtogether at their adjoining edges. The cramps are formed in preciselythe same manner as 10 has been stated in the above.

It will be understood that this method of making settings for clustersfor jewelry is not limited to any particular kind or character of metaland instead of forming the several parts by means of a die and partiallyforming the design in outline thereon by a die, said parts can be madeby hand, it dosirable, and the design may be engraved or otherwiseformed.

The method is applicable to any shape or form of rings and to anyclasses of jewelry in general. By my novel method, this class of clusterjewelry is much lighter and the frame-Work for the precious stones canbe quickly and safely secured together and can be made with considerableless expense to the manufacturer, being a great saving in time andlabor.

Having thus described my invention, what 0 I claim is 1. The methodhereinbefore described of producing jewelry, consisting in first,forming a side piece, as a, with a design in outline thereon; secondly,forming a center piece, as

b, thirdly, soldering said center piece to the side piece, so that theupper surface of the center piece and the upper edge of the side pieceare flush, and finally, forming the ing side-pieces, as a with a designin outline thereon; secondly, shaping said side pieces crescent-shape,thirdly, soldering two of said side-pieces together at their ends,fourthly, forming a center-piece as b, fifthly, placing said centerpiece between said soldered side pieces and soldering said center pieceto said side pieces, so that the upper surface of the center piece andthe upper edge of the side pieces are flush, and finally, forming crampson said side pieces and said center piece, substantially as and for thepurposes set forth.

3. The method hereinbefore described of producing jewelry, consisting infirst, forming a side piece, as a, with a design in outline thereon,secondly, forming a center piece, as b, and providingsaid center piecewith holes or perforations 12 near the edge, thirdly, soldering saidcenter'piece to the side piece, so that the upper surface of the centerpiece and upper edge of the side piece are Hush, and finally, filing orcutting away the edges of said center-piece and side-piece into theholes or perforations I), to form holding cramps for the jewels of thepiece of jewelry, all substantially as and for the purposes set forth.In testimony that I claim the invention set forth above I have hereuntoset my hand this

